Kuala Gandah Elephant Sanctuary

Last pack of the holiday this morning - and that was a good feeling.

We have seen some impressive animals during our visit to Borneo - but getting involved with the Elephant Sanctuary was priceless. We organised a last minute trip with a volunteer Zali Mn (Contact on jungletrekker69@gmail.com). I had read about him on Trip Advisor and though we would try him as we couldn't find other tours on short notice.

Peter, the children and myself worked with the elephants handlers - preparing the food, feeding the elephants, cleaning the pens, visiting all the enclosures and helping to wash the baby elephant int he river.  Some of the routine was very touristy - but that was OK as we got to be behind the scenes and up very close in the pens with the elephants.

Placing your hand inside the elephants mouth was not for the faint hearted (Peter tried to throw the food in - but that doesn't work!) - but that is how they got their papaya and sugar cane. A pat on the trunk and then to the next enclosure for more feeding. Don't forget to feed any elephants - they get very jealous.

The baby elephants are so cute - they will feed out of your hands as they learn to eat. Look out for Miss Velcro - she just loves the sound and feel of your shoes. A definite place to spend some time for a hands on experience and well worth the 1.5/2 hours travel.

Our cost included Zali hiring a car, lunch at a local restaurant (typical Malaysian food on the street), entrance to the park and drinks/ice creams during the day.

Zali has been volunteering at the sanctuary for 27 years - after he developed an interest when he was with the Malaysian SES. It splits his time between his life in Malaysia - and England where his wife and son live.

What a way to end the trip! Just amazing.

Then to Kuala Lumpur to catch an 11.45pm flight back to Australia.

Shopping in KL

8^th October

A lazy start to the morning – catching up on electronic entertainment while Peter went for a swim in the rooftop pool. We walked to Seria which is the shopping centre attached to the Patronas towers. It is very nice – but catering to the more affluent market. Many of the stores are high end designer labels – but we were able to find some places we could afford. The souvenirs stands and the food hall. We didn’t go up the towers so the RM240 that we didn’t spend can go towards tomorrows expensive trip to the Elephant Sanctuary. Went for a walk through the KLCC par and the kids had a quick play on the equipment – same as Australia apparently! Went back to our accommodation and had a swim in the rooftop pool. It’s not a hot day – but all that walking in the city builds up a sweat. Stayed up on the roof so long we were able to see the 7.30pm water fountain and light show at the Patronas towers – great eagle eye view from our apartment. We walked across to Parkson mall for dinner – which is massive and very modern. Took us a while to find something we could afford as it is also aimed at high end clientele. Earlier night tonight – we have to get up early to pack. Last day in Malaysia tomorrow.

Kuala Lumpur

7^th October

A nice sleep in for the kids while I did some of our washing. Some of us are down to our last set of clothes (and under ware!).Had a look at the roof top pool and the view of the Patronas towers was great – except for the haze. We walked up the road and dropped into a very popular shopping centre full of locals getting lunch. Had a wonderful Indian lunch – heaps of locals coming and going (always a good sign). From there we walked to the local monorail station and caught a carriage to visit Berjaya Shopping Centre. It has an indoor roller coaster and theme park. The kids and Peter spent 3 hours there and had a wonderful time. Meanwhile I had a foot massage and a manicure to pass the time. The shopping centre is 9 stories high and has about 700 shops – very small and mostly Malaysian. From there we caught the monorail again to China town and walked for the next 3 hours through all the markets and stalls. They sell most of the usual stuff – copies of jewellery, bags, shoes, clothes, luggage and some souvenirs. It was a great opportunity to teach the kids how to bargain – that it is expected and how to work out what is a good price. Had some delicious fresh fruit at one of the stalls – love how they have it all ready for you to eat and you use a skewer to pick it out. Back home for Peter and the girls to go for a roof top swim.  

Poring Hot Springs sight seeing

6^th October

After breakfast we went into the Poring Hot Springs complex – the first thing we did was to view the butterfly display which lovely but it is really hard to get a good photo of a butterfly. Do they ever stay still? Then a short walk and we were on the canopy skywalk – our third canopy walk since being in Borneo. It took us above the trees for a lovely view of the surrounding mountains and undulating hills. No surprise sightings of birds or wildlife. Our next experience was another short walk to a waterfall where we can get a fish pedicure. This is where little fish come to nibble on your feet. Unfortunately today must have been their day off – no fish! Although this morning started out cool – it has soon warmed up and we are walking in the typical humid oppressive atmosphere of the jungle. Sweat dripping off us. Back to our room for a quick freshen up and for the kids to change into swimmers and back for a relaxing swim in the pools at the hot spring. Not surprising the kids were not interested in a dip in any of the hot springs – the first pool after the source of the spring was too hot for Peter to keep his hand in there (above 60oC). When the day is hot the last thing you want is a hot bath. We were hoping to see Mt Kinabalu on our way home – but as the clouds rolled in and it started to rain we realised yesterday’s photos would be the best we would get. A quick diversion to the Sabah tea plantation where we had a pot of tea with some tea pancakes and fruit, and back onto the road for our drive back to KK. The poor car is so badly maintained and so low in power – at times we thought we would have to get out and push the car up the hills.  Another drive that did not take 2 hours – and we arrived at 6.30 in time to check our luggage in for our 8.05pm flight to Kuala Lumpur. A very late night as we arrived at our lovely accommodation and settled in for a well earned sleep. 

Poring Hot Springs

5^th October

Had a 9am taxi pickup to take us to the airport. Not surprising s sedan came to get us – too small, so they had to send for a bigger vehicle. Off to the airport where Peter had organised a hire car for two days. On arrival we discover that of the two cars we were looking to hire, one has already been rented out for an emergency situation, and the other only has 4 seatbelts. The hire company couldn’t understand our reticence in renting this car (safety). So another vehicle is organised but it is back in Kota Kinabalu – could we drive there in the unsafe car? So we wait for the other car to come to the airport. Two hours after our arrival at the airport and we are on our way – with no map and no GPS. Although we do have Peters phone. The guide books say it is 2 hours to Poring hot springs – but the traffic is bad and it takes us 3.  When we arrive and book into our wonderful river cottage (yes – right next to the rushing torrent of the river) we organised a tour to see the rafflesia flower in bloom. This is a very large flower (75dm) which blooms for 5 days once a year and then dies. It was very impressive – although the price of RM30 each (AUD$10) was way too expensive for the small amount of tour we received. Over to the swimming facilities for dinner and then a quiet relax at home watching some tv. 

Relaxing in Kota Kinabalu

4^th October

What a great sleep last night at the Masada Backpackers. Clean rooms, comfortable beds and great pillows. The showers had great water pressure – so nice to get properly clean. After some simple toast with vegemite or jam (vegemite always tastes better overseas) we headed off to the Gaya Street markets. Great to wander around the stalls – lots of things to attract the tourists. It was a lovely sunny day, however when we walked further into the street the breeze could not be felt and we started to sweat! We said our goodbyes to the Wells family who were flying to Kuala Lumpur today and kept on shopping. The kids and I got ourselves some henna tattoos and then had a nice rest in a local restaurant for lunch before heading back to the normal shops. We couldn’t resist the temptation of a foot massage (each) for RM25 (AUD8). Back to our accommodation to organise a hire car for tomorrow and for the kids to have a rest in the room in air conditioned comfort (with WiFi). 

Mantanani - paradise

Day 3

After breakfast we went for an 8.30 snorkel out to centrepoint. It is between the two islands and although it was nice it wasn’t as good as yesterday. Peter used an ear plug and came for a snorkel – he couldn’t bear to watch us having all the fun. The weather was beautiful – so clear we could see blue sky. The storm last night appears to have blown away much of the smoke from Indonesia that has been obscuring our view.  We went for a walk along the beach up to the village. It is sad to see so much rubbish in the water and along the shore. Rebecca saw a local person come to the beach and empty a large bag of household rubbish at high tide line – waiting for the next high tide to take it all away  (out of sight, out of mind). As we came back along the beach we stopped at another resort (homestay) and the best thing was they have cold drinks. Our accommodation only has electricity from 6.30 at night to 6.30 in the morning. Great to power the fan but not good to keep the drinks cold. At night we can see fire flies playing under the trees by the beach, but in the distance the oil rigs can be seen glowing as they burn off fuel. Not so serene.  

Welcome to Mari Mari Backpackers

29th September

DAY 1

Travelled two hours in a hired mini bus to Kota Balud to catch a boat to take us to Mantanani. Just to see if we are patient – the boat was double booked and so we waited for another larger boat to take us and the other 30 guests. The boat trip was a bit rough and most of us were wet with sea spray. Addison was a bit was sick and many of the Asians were clearly scared and kept their life jackets on. Near to the beach we saw two turtles’ swim underneath the boat. Good to see they are still around. The boat cruises to the beach in front of the accommodation and you walk down to the beach and to Mari Mari Backpackers resort. We were provided with a rundown of the facilities and then allocated to our rooms. We are staying in Sulaps which are a room and bathroom set up above the ground like a small treehouse. Three beds to each room – with Peter , Addison and I together, the boys – Lachlan, Oscar and Nick in another room and Jordyn sharing with Bec and Jon. The rooms are very simple with a double bed and a mattress for the extra person; a bedside table and the bathroom. A small balcony at the front, but underneath is a sitting area on decking boards with a ‘Jack and Jill seat’ and a hammock. 

We are about 20 metres from the beach although we are not in the first row of the Sulaps. We get a nice breeze off the beach but no views. We arrived on the first day at 1.30 and after we settled into the rooms we went and had a snorkel out the front of our resort on our beach. Heaps of fish although the coral has been destroyed and can be seen crushed all over the sand. There are some lovely areas of sea anemone and brain coral. 

Kota Kinabalu

4^th October

What a great sleep last night at the Masada Backpackers. Clean rooms, comfortable beds and great pillows. The showers had great water pressure – so nice to get properly clean. After some simple toast with vegemite or jam (vegemite always tastes better overseas) we headed off to the Gaya Street markets. Great to wander around the stalls – lots of things to attract the tourists. It was a lovely sunny day, however when we walked further into the street the breeze could not be felt and we started to sweat! We said our goodbyes to the Wells family who were flying to Kuala Lumpur today and kept on shopping. The kids and I got ourselves some henna tattoos and then had a nice rest in a local restaurant for lunch before heading back to the normal shops. We couldn’t resist the temptation of a foot massage (each) for RM25 (AUD8). Back to our accommodation to organise a hire car for tomorrow and for the kids to have a rest in the room in air conditioned comfort (with WiFi). 

Mantanani Island

Day 2

We arranged for a snorkel and went to Rocky Point which is a shallow reef between two rocky outcrops. Peter couldn’t snorkel because he still had an infected ear. There was a lot of fish of many different types and some lovely bright blue coral growing. 

Nick and Lachlan did an introduction to scuba diving lesson that went for 3 hours. First they did some theory and then they went into the water in their scuba gear off the beach. After that they went in the boat for a dive of about 5 metres between Gilly Reef and Sting Ray Avenue. Although Nick was excited and a little nervous to be scuba diving he didn’t observe much different to when he snorkels. Peter and Jon went for a walk along the beach picking up rubbish and putting it in garbage bags. The area in front of the resort is clean and tidy, and there is not much rubbish in the water however either side of the beach there is a lot of rubbish on the high tide line. A lazy afternoon in and out of the water snorkelling and swimming, and then in the late afternoon a storm came across and we watched the lightning splay across the sky. 

Mantanani - last day

Day 5

Last day at Mantanani island so we organised for a final snorkel. First though we had to pack our things and vacate our rooms. Great boat trip this morning as the sea was so calm. We started off at Mari Mari Garden and then swam around rocky point and finished at Magic Rock. We had to swim through some really shallow water and it was a challenge to keep you fins away from the coral. Oscar saw one of the Asian diver hit some coral with his fins and knock off a piece about the size of a toddler – he was astounded that the man didn’t even notice. It was such a lovely day there were many snorkelling boats out – about 6 boats were moored between the two Islands. Nick counted over 100 people get off the other boats – looking odd bobbing around in their bright orange life jackets while not one person on our dive boat needed a life vest. The snorkel this morning was lovely and we were able to see many different fish, eels, sea urchins, clams, and sea cucumbers. Back home we had a nice lunch and lazed around snorkelling or sleeping until our return boat ride at 4pm, then our bus ride back to Kota Kinabalu. Great dinner at the wet market in KK sharing bargain seafood with the Wells family – I love paying RM20 (AUD$7) for a blue swimmer crab.

Mantanani at leisure

Day 4

Lazy day today as the wind was blowing onto the island and making the water a bit choppy. Visibility was not so good. After a lazy morning reading we decided to walk across the island (although reception had told us not to). Peter and Jon had already done it and it was safe – only takes about 15 minutes. The other side has a big deserted shallow bay. A walk along the bay for about 30 minutes (and a few swims because it was very humid – no breeze this side) and then we saw a resort. We had been given the impression there was nothing on this side. Further walking and we discovered another 4 resorts – but they appeared to be catering to a mainly Chinese and Japanese clientele. Our resort seems to be full with Europeans, Australians, Americans and a few Asian day trippers. Each day we have breakfast, lunch and dinner at the resort (backpackers lodge). The food varies between really good (curries and grilled fish) to really bad (spaghetti carbonara made with asian noodles and tinned mushroom soup mix). At night the kids are having a great time playing games while the adults are giving some of the duty free and local spirits a nudge. All very relaxing.