A day at the hospital waiting room

28th September
This morning Peter woke with a blocked left ear which was swollen as was the left side of his face. He has been taking antibiotics for an infected ear for four days but it has gotten worse. So - off to the local hospital and then a wait to see the ENT specialist. All is well - no perforated ear drum, however he can't swim for 3 days. Not such a problem except we are off to Mantanani Island tomorrow for 5 days !  A very lazy day in the apartment watching TV and catching up on the internet while we still have both - while Peter gets some rest.

Kota Kinabalu

27^th September

Casual breakfast with the wells family and meeting up with the americans Rachel & Tyler again. Arranged transport to the airport and a forty minute flight to Kota Kinabalu. Booked into our accommodation at North Borneo Marina – a three bedroom apartment (with Wifi). Went to the chemist to get Peter some antibiotics (dispensed over the counter) for his ear infection, and then to the Apple store to get Nick’s ipod unlocked. A bit of a wander around the shopping centre and then back to our accommodation for a swim. Nick and I went over to the wet market to have a look around and at the handicraft markets. Had a great dinner at a local Sushi restaurant (not very Malaysian) and even got to enjoy a nice white wine. Back to our air conditioned apartment.

Kinabatangan Jungle Trek

26^th September

An early morning boat tour and a jungle trek. Lots of egret and snake birds along the river. Not so much wildlife on land – we could see the droppings from the elephants but they were long gone. 

Tractor caterpillar

Plenty of bugs – pill bug, tractor centipede, wild bees, white hairy caterpillars (very poisonous) and many spiders. We decided that another day in the heat doing nothing was too tedious – so we headed back to Sepilok this morning to stay with the Wells family and Sepilok B & B. It was nice to get back to luxury (of a sort) to have a shower, and sit under a fan to cool off. Even air conditioning to sleep under! We spent hours sitting in the restaurant under the fans having cold drinks and talking to other travellers.

Osman's Homestay

25^th September

This morning we were taken on a visit to Osmans family – who all live within a few minutes boat ride. Two of the families also do homestay so we were able to meet other travellers. Had a great chat with two French tourists and a great discussion about the palm oil plantations and the Malaysian environment. Another lazy afternoon around the veranda back at Osman’s playing Yahtzee and then off to an afternoon tour up the river to a different spot to look for wildlife. We were lucky to see a banana snake, proboscis monkeys, macquaes and orang-utans. We also saw some beautiful kingsfishers. 

We were also saw four types of hornbill birds – white crown hornbill which is rare to see, rhinoceros hornbill which is very colourful and a black tail hornbill. Each day we have a hot breakfast and cooked lunch and dinner at Osmans. The meals are delicious though because they are curries it is a bit hard for the kids sometimes. Osman took Mai, Peter, Jon, Lachlan, Nick, Oscar and myself for a night time walk in the jungle out the back of his home. Mai is from china and is a photographer (as well as a magician) and he was after photos of insects. We were getting some interesting pictures – and then Oscar stood in a bunch of fire ants and they started crawling over him and biting him! Poor kid. They also got us – but only a few. Their bite burns like fire – aptly named ants. That was a quick end to the jungle exploration.

Kinabatangan River

24^th September

Picked up this morning for a two hour trip to Sukai and then to Osmans homestay on the Kinabatangan river. A very simple place but we had three rooms for the nine of us. The kids had fund playing with Osman’s twin daughters and the neighbours kids – Frisbee and soccer. We had a lazy afternoon on the veranda and in the afternoon we went off for our first boat trip to see wildlife. 

We were able to see an otter and family of pups although we couldn’t get good photos as they were in the shadow of the trees. Wonderful to watch them play. We also saw a snake neck bird, lots of proboscis monkeys and families of Macaques. 

Lots of tour boats

It was a very hot night so we were happy that a big storm came across and cooled us down – only fans in the room. 

Sepilok

23^rd September

A bit of a sleep in this morning and then off to the Borneo Rainforest Discovery Centre which is only 400m down the road. We walked along the canopy walk which is 10-30m above the ground and is 430m long. Constructed of metal it felt very safe and more than one person could walk on it at a time – unlike the Mulu walk which was made of wood and only one person could be on. 

We saw a Black Hornbill and an eagle up in the canopy, sunbirds and some Giant Tree Squirrels.  We visited the Plant discovery garden where we saw so many colourful and delicate orchids.

After a relaxing lunch back at Sepilok B & B, our friend Amahl picked us up and drove us to Labuck Bay Proboscus Sanctuary.

The monkeys are fed a sugar free pancake every day – so the amount of Proboscus monkeys that turn up is great. Such a great photo opportunity. Anahl then drove us into Sandakan and we visited the War Memorial from the Sandakan march in 1945. It was very moving and so well constructed. After that we went to the ‘English tea house’ for high tea. So relaxing under the trees enjoying the cooling breeze from the bay and the viewing advantage of being on the highest hill in Sandakan. Amahl took us for a drive around town and then to a local seafood restaurant for a great meal beside the water. Another storm hit while we were eating – a result of the typoon in the Phillipines. The third night that a big storm has raged – but it is a nice cool change so we won’t complain. We went to a local megamart called ‘Giant’ which is like a Kmart and coles combined. We needed some supplies for our trip to Kinabatangan tomorrow. It was so busy as tomorrow is an Islamic holiday and prayer day – so many people were there getting supplies. A very late night but we can pack tomorrow.

Sepilok

22^nd September

It was so nice to sleep in our air conditioned cabin last night. We are staying at Sepilok B & B and the rooms are way more spacious and luxurious than we were expecting. Sat up talking with Amal last night till midnight – so interesting to speak with a local and to hear about their different lifestyle. Slow walk this morning to the Bornean Sunbear conservation Centre which is 1.5km down the road from our accommodation.

 It was great to see the young sunbears, and one of them called Furlong climbed a tree right in front of us. Great photo opportunities. A little later two Macaques came along to scavenge off the Sunbear food. They are quite aggressive so we have to keep away from them – but they look so harmless and cute. 

From there we had a great lunch at a local roadside café and then went to see the Orang-utan feeding at 3pm at the Sepilok Orang-utan Sanctuary. Not only did we see a mother and her baby come for the feeding – there were 2 other mature orang-utan and two adolescents. The sanctuary staff bring fresh fruit and vegetables to the platform and the orang-utan come right on time. Towards the end of the feeding time – heaps of Macques come to eat what is left. They are hilarious with their antics – stealing food off each other and running away, jumping on each other and mothers trying to groom their babies. We could have sat their watching them all day. The kids were walking along the boardwalk when one of the older orang-utan comes walking along the handrail in front of us. It is nice to be so close to them – but we have been warned that they can be aggressive (they are wild animals after all).

 From the park we bought some souvenirs and then went to meet up with my cousin Rebecca, her husband Jon and kids Lachlan & Oscar who are also travelling through Borneo. The kids all enjoyed catching up, although I don’t know if the restaurant enjoyed their vocal card game of ‘Poo Face’.

 A nice shared dinner and then a walk back home along the extremely dark road (no street lights). Another comfortable nights sleep in air-conditioning. Best to enjoy it while we can. 

Up Above the Jungle Canopy

21 September

We caught a ride to the park HQ to partake in the 8.30am canopy walk. The canopy walk is a suspension walkway 30m above the forest floor and 480m long. Some of the walkway was closed so instead of a loop, we walked the length of the walkway and then returned the same way.

 We weren’t luck enough to see any animals although Peter and Jordyn got to see a Niahm butterfly – it looks like a stealth jet fighter and it rarely flaps its wings as it glides. We saw some more interesting bugs on the morning and a pygmy possum which is about the size of a small field mouse. Back to Mulu Village to pay our bill, pack our bags and say our goodbyes. We were fortunate enough to catch up with the Costa family as they arrived just as we were leaving to get the bus to the airport. Caught a flight from Mulu to Kota Kinabalu – with a quick stop at Miri airport to go through customs. Apparently you can enter the Sarawak region without a problem, but they want to ensure that .people do not stay at Mulu and take the jobs from the locals. A nice two hour wait at KK with time to have dinner, and then on to Sandakan and our stay at Sepilok B & B. Peter’s new friend Amal lives in Sandakan and is going to catch up with us tomorrow. They sat together on the flight from Sydney. Peter is making lots of new friends everywhere we visit.

A Day at the Waterfall

20^th September

A bit of a sleep in this morning and then at 10am we caught a boat ride on the Melinau River and then turned into Baram River to the Long Iman Penan settlement and longhouse. We went for a nice long hot walk (1hr) and at the end we were rewarded with a majestic waterfall. In no time at all we were in the cool clear water and enjoying a waterfall massage. 

Addison was in her prime enjoying the variety of rocks, especially the chalky ones that she ground up to make paint. Of course mum and dad were the canvas'– enjoying sitting quietly while Addison created a masterpiece (apparently) on her back! 

A simple lunch of noodles cooked on a bush fire. The Costa family also came with us and the kids loved having others to play with – jumping into the deep pools, skimming stones, playing tag, investigating the waterfall and swimming most of the day. Although it was really hot, the water felt so cool and refreshing. It was sad to say goodbye to the Costa family who were spending the night at the longhouse but we swapped contact details so we can keep in touch. A beautifully refreshing ride home in the boat and then we quickly made our way back to the national park to go back to see the bats exiting from Deer cave. It was great to see them come flowing out. Our last meal at the cafe across from Mulu Village. 

Gunung Mulu National Park Day 2

19^th September

Today is the first day that we could see blue sky. Caught a boat to Wind & Clearwater caves this morning. The trip was about 40 minutes along the Melinau river.  The river levels are fairly low so at some points the boat driver had to go carefully around snags and rapids. The first cave was the wind cave – named because of the change in pressure between the entrance and the main chamber which creates a blast of refreshing wind as you wind into it. After a quick ride (2 min) we reached the Clearwater cave which has 200 steps to reach the entrance (yep-the kids counted them).  Both caves were impressive, but the Clearwater cave has an underground river at the bottom that feeds the outside swimming area. After a sweaty walk around, we had another delicious lunch (fried rice and an omelette), Peter and the kids had a refreshing swim in the Clearwater pools. In the afternoon we hung around the Mulu Village while Peter tinkered with the host’s motor bike. We met the Costa family who are from Australia – Tracey, Lewis and their four children (Sara 15, Jyah 13 , Talie 10, Rayne10). The kids played badminton with one of the local kids, and kept themselves occupied all afternoon (no electronics). As it got darker they were running around the yard catching fire flies. We had dinner across the road at the dinner with the Costa family from Mullumbimby. They are really nice and the kids all get on very well.  Another great day in Mulu.

Gunung Mulu National Park

Friday 18^th

We woke at 3am this morning by thunder so loud and lightning so bright, only Addison slept through it. Although it made for a bad night sleep it was amazing to see the volume of water that comes down during a tropical storm – and the lightning display was stunning. An early pickup and transfer to the airport for our 9.10am flight. Unfortunately due to the smoke and haze in the air, our flight was delayed until 11am. A relaxed wait at the airport and then off to Mulu. It was exciting to land at an airport surrounded by jungle and with a short air strip. We were picked up by the local transporter and taken to our very simple accommodation called Mulu Vullage. It is a homestay close to the river but about 2km from the Gunung Mulu national park. It doesn’t sound far but in 80% humidity it seems a lot further. We quickly dropped our things into our room (5 single beds in one room) and then transferred to the national park for our first tour. A 2.8km walk to Lang cave which had stunning limestone formations. Not only was it stunning to see, it was great to find the cave and the formations so well cared for and protected. The park is really well maintained and organised – wooden walkways to most of the caves. After the Lang cave we went next to Deer cave which at 174m high and 2km long is the largest cave passage in the world open to the public. Once you get over the smell of the guano and the droplets hitting your body (not water droplets!) it is all so overwhelming because of its sheer size. The afternoon was sweltering, so we welcomed the thunderstorm as it cooled us down. Unfortunately for us bats don’t like the rain so we didn’t get to see the highlight of the walk which is the mass bat exodus of the millions of bats in deer cave. On the return walk in the dark we saw so many amazing creatures – stick insects, spikey stick insects, snails, frogs, caterpillars, millipedes, centipedes and many noises of things we did not see. Again it rained – but we didn’t bother with rain coats and enjoyed the cooling rain. A scrumptious (although overpriced) dinner at a local outdoor café and home for showers (getting rid of the guano). Early night.

Annah Rais Longhouse & Kayaking

Thursday 17^th

After a tour of the Annah Rais longhouse we drove to the start of our kayaking adventure. We were paired up and off we went in our twin kayaks. The river water level was very low as they have not had much rain lately. Every now and again the kayaks would get stuck on a sand bank or hit shallow water, and out we would have to get and pull the kayak to a deeper area. Due to the low level of water there was only a grade 1 level of rapids – not enough to get excited about. After 4 kms of paddling we stopped at a local village for another delicious meal and then back into the water for a further 7km of paddling. By the end of the day we were very tired. Back to Kuching for a quick afternoon coffee and cake at Indah Houz Café (best coffee in Kuching) and to our accommodation for a shower and to pack our bags. A great day on the water.

Semenggoh Wildlife centre & Macheree Homestay

Wednesday - an early pickup by Presto Ringin of Macheree Homestay and an hours drive to the Semenggph Wildlife centre. Although we were advised that it is not everyday that the Orang-utan comes to visit, we went to the feeding platform and hoped for the best. We were blessed as we got to see a mum Seddamiah and her two year old daughter Ruby eating and playing.

We were about 25m away from them and it was lovely to watch them eat breakfast. From there we went to Annah Rais - a small town of  700 people and they are all related. It is a traditional longhouse homestay, although the accommodation we were sleeping in was similar to a 1950's Australian house, although 2 storey. We had a delicious lunch of fried rice and after a quick change into our swimmers, we went for a jungle walk to see the three tier waterfall. After a hot walk (only 37oC but humid) we got to enjoy the delights of the cooling waterfall.

Ringin Snr (our host) had collected the root of a wild ginger plant and some other native herbs and made a local bamboo chicken dish (cooked over an open fire in bamboo). It was served with sticky rice cooked in pandan leaf and fresh vegetables. It was so enjoyable.

On the way home we stopped to collect some picher plants to cook breakfast in. We stopped along some country roads and foraged in the forest undergrowth 

In the afternoon we went to the Hot springs - and boy they were hot. Only Peter could go in - not even the locals could stand the heat. Nick managed to his chest but then it became too hot. In the evening we had another lovely meal at our homestay - and then a cultural dancer and musician entertained us. The children were lucky to dress in traditional costume and join the dancing.

Kuching at leisure

A planned rest day today in the city of cats - Kuching. Our accommodation was very convenient - in the centre of old china town. After a lovely breakfast at Indah Houz (the owners of our accommodation) we walked the streets looking for souvenirs, but also the chores of getting washing done. Peter managed to find a Quicksilver shop to buy himself some gear, and of course Nick had to look into every soccer and sports shop he could find. Peter organised a self guided tour of Kuching by bike while we cruised the streets looking at the souvenir shops and sampling the local street cuisine. The kids were enticed with free samples to try the local specialty - Kek Lapis. A colourful layer cake with up to 10 layers of very sweet but very thin layers of sponge cake. Nick was the first the hand over the money!

But while the Dad was cycling - we all went to get our feet massaged. Bliss after all the walking the past two days.

A lovely finish to our rest day - a cruise on the river as the sun set. Unfortunately the haze from the Samatran fires is still around, and together with the vapor in the air we can't see very far.

Bako National Park

Up bright and early on this Monday to pack our bags, have a delicious breakfast and say goodbye to Permai Rainforest Resort. At breakfast we were lucky to see a squirrel, a gecko and a chameleon.

The drive to the national park didn't take long and we were soon meeting our Malaysian guide Harry. We travelled to the park by boat and although we didn't see any, we were warned not to swim in the south China Sea as there are crocodiles around. Our first encounter with wild life was to see a family of Hairy Nosed Boars. Our first walk was only 1km but with the humidity we had sweat dripping from us - occasionally we would feel a gentle breeze, but not often enough. We weren't lucky to see any monkeys, but we saw another bright green viper (Peter knew better than to poke this one). Back near the Bako accommodation and we were lucky to see some Silver Leaf Monkeys. They call them David Beckom monkeys as they have a mohawk. After lunch we got to experience the naughty Macaque monkeys - they even tried to steal things from my handbag when I wasn't looking! So cute though.

Sprung stealing from my bag

Then we had another walk of only 1km - but again we melted in the humidity. Up and down, up and down, walking over slippery vines and stairs that resemble old fashioned ladders (for giants). When we finally reached the beach we were disappointed not to see any animals. Although the view out to sea was covered in a smoke have it was lovely to have the jungle as a bakdrop to the beautiful sands of the beach. After a short walk along the beach, we were rewarded with a cry from Harry - he had seen some Proboscus monkeys. Most people on Trip advisor had mentioned they had not been able to find any - and nobody had seen any that day so we felt really lucky. Trying to get a photo of them was really difficult - they wouldn't stay still! Fortunately we had the zoom lens of my camera - but we still only managed some distant shots of tails, bottoms and backs.

The trip back to the wharf was very enjoyable as the breeze cooled us and made us forget it was so hot and humid. We were picked up by Permai Rainforest Resort, back to collect the luggage and into Kuching to stay at our new accommodation. We will miss our lovely treehouses.

Busy Sunday at Permai Rainforest Resort

We arrived in Kuching at 8.50 am this morning and were collected by Permai Rain forest Resort. We saw a flying Lemur (asleep in a tree) and a bright green viper laying in a tree. The viper was so still we thought it was plastic - until Peter poked it with a stick and then it moved (very quickly). Not long after we found out the viper was one of the most venomous snakes in Malaysia! After checking into our 'Treehouse' we had a swim in the ocean. It shouldn't have been a surprise - but it was as steamy as a hot bath! Every now and again we would get a cooler current- but it was not refreshing. Still better than the 34oC humid weather back on land. After that we visited the Sarawak Cultural Village which was very interesting - but we melted walking around. So it was a nice cooling visit to the cultural show which was air conditioned. Tonight my mad husband has gone on a local bike ride in the humid heat, while the kids and I sit at the restaurant and use their free WiFi. Early night tonight after only 4 hours sleep on the plane. Considering the lack of sleep - kids have been wonderful and enjoying the sights and meeting the locals. Saw our first wild monkeys on our way to the cultural village - and like typical tourists we took heaps of photos, Saw a few squirrels running around the place - they are so quick so there is no chance of getting their photo.

Transit in Kuala lumpur

Sitting in the Kuala Lumpur airport waiting our connecting flight to Kuching. Kids are enjoying the free WiFi. Our next stop is Permai Rainforest Resort where we will be staying in a treehouse and visiting Baku National Park. The flight was uneventful and it was nice to only have an 8 hour flight.

One week to go

In one week we will be in Kuching Malaysia enjoying tropical weather and the delights of a family holidays. We are all a bit excited and starting to get ourselves in order - washing, cleaning, packing. So much to do...