Friday 18th
We woke at 3am this morning by thunder so loud and lightning
so bright, only Addison slept through it. Although it made for a bad night
sleep it was amazing to see the volume of water that comes down during a
tropical storm – and the lightning display was stunning. An early pickup and
transfer to the airport for our 9.10am flight. Unfortunately due to the smoke
and haze in the air, our flight was delayed until 11am. A relaxed wait at the
airport and then off to Mulu. It was exciting to land at an airport surrounded
by jungle and with a short air strip. We were picked up by the local
transporter and taken to our very simple accommodation called Mulu Vullage. It
is a homestay close to the river but about 2km from the Gunung Mulu national
park. It doesn’t sound far but in 80% humidity it seems a lot further. We
quickly dropped our things into our room (5 single beds in one room) and then
transferred to the national park for our first tour. A 2.8km walk to Lang cave
which had stunning limestone formations. Not only was it stunning to see, it
was great to find the cave and the formations so well cared for and protected.
The park is really well maintained and organised – wooden walkways to most of
the caves. After the Lang cave we went next to Deer cave which at 174m high and
2km long is the largest cave passage in the world open to the public. Once you
get over the smell of the guano and the droplets hitting your body (not water
droplets!) it is all so overwhelming because of its sheer size. The afternoon
was sweltering, so we welcomed the thunderstorm as it cooled us down.
Unfortunately for us bats don’t like the rain so we didn’t get to see the
highlight of the walk which is the mass bat exodus of the millions of bats in
deer cave. On the return walk in the dark we saw so many amazing creatures –
stick insects, spikey stick insects, snails, frogs, caterpillars, millipedes,
centipedes and many noises of things we did not see. Again it rained – but we
didn’t bother with rain coats and enjoyed the cooling rain. A scrumptious
(although overpriced) dinner at a local outdoor café and home for showers
(getting rid of the guano). Early night.
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